There was so much good stuff going on during Disainiöö (Design Night Festival) that I have to split ti up into a series of posts. Sunday brought a show of rare power from two young Estonian designers, Liisa Soolepp and Marta Cycles (real name Marta Moorats). There are some people who crave "the straight story", preferring the classic runway show to a more theatrical, story-based performance in a fashion show. Perhaps due to my non-fashion background and my consequent need to be occupied by more than the detail of the clothing, I love a good narrative.
The show began with a solitary model (pictured) staring into space. I, embarrassingly, assumed she was the designer, glaring at me for being late, but it was part of the performance. The whole vibe was very much that of being "lost in the woods", or perhaps possessed by a spirit - similarly to Marin Sild's ERKI Fashion Show-winning concept earlier this year.
Liisa Soolepp, a Tartu University graduate (and I'll be profiling a lot more Tartu designers shortly), showed a collection of wearable, practical knitwear, perfect for the fast-approaching Estonian winter, yet also showing the shape of the models. Click on the images below to show them full-screen.
Marta Cycles' collection was up-cycled on "zero-waste principles" according to the official Disainiöö website. The materials used, in their entirety, were decommissioned Russian army parachutes - the idea was inspired by anecdotes of women doing similar during the 1940s. With the drama of the elaborate stagecraft, along with the eerie ambient music played by the DJs, the show left a chill on the spine, whilst also leaving the spectator wanting more.